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Last week I went in to dispute my water bill at the Botswana Water Utilities Corporation. (This is always a good idea since the meter readers frequently guesstimate the amount and bills only come in the mail every six months or so, making it hard to keep up.) After I ironed everything out with the Customer Service rep sitting behind his big desk in a nicely-tailored suit, we got to chatting and I discovered that he has a nine-month-old baby with his girlfriend in Francistown—quite a few hours’ drive away from Gaborone. He doesn’t get to see his family much; he said that he wished he could get married and have them move closer. I asked him why they weren’t married yet. He swiveled a bit in his black office chair and replied that his girlfriend’s dowry is 15 head of cattle at 5,000 pula each ($600) because of the particular tribe she is from and there is no way he can afford that right now.

This is Botswana—a man saving up his salary in his modern office building to buy cattle while executives from the diamond industry sliding by in new BMWs are forced to slow down for the cows in the road. A little new, a little old: side by side, making the ride more interesting.

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